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Pool Maintenance
Five Basic Steps
of Water Chemistry
Step 1 -- pH Control
pH, which is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of the water
is determined by your test kit. Proper pH maintenance is extremely
important as it is responsible for the correct bacterial action
of the chlorine, swimmer comfort and prevents deterioration
of the equipment and the pool itself. The proper pH is 7.4
to 7.6. Ideally, your pool should maintain at the lower level
of 7.4.
After testing the water, if the pH is too high, chlorine efficiency
is reduced, scaling of surfaces and equipment may occur, water
may become cloudy, and shorter filter runs may occur. To correct
this condition, a pH decreaser is added directly to the water.
There are two common forms of pH decreaser: liquid muriatic
acid and granular sodium bisulfate. Never add more than one
pound of sodium bisulfate or one pint o muriatic acid per
10,000 gallons of pool water without professional guidance.
If the pH is too low, chlorine dissipates more rapidly, water
may be irritating to swimmers, and corrosion of equipment
and surfaces may occur. To correct this situation, pH increaser
is added directly to the water. pH increaser is commonly called
soda ash. Never add more than one pound of pH increaser per
10,000 gallons of pool water without professional guidance.
Step 2 -- Continuous Disinfection
Chlorine treatment is to maintain water purity. A good average
chlorine residual is 1.5 ppm. The pool may be carried as low
as 1.0 ppm or as high as 2.0 ppm. The low level would be more
subject to failure of the system under stress and the higher
level would increase operational costs. Therefore, the recommendation
of 1.5 operating level is a good compromise that will assure
water purity and low operating costs.
The use of compressed tri-chloro-s-triazine-trione tablets,
insures even levels of continuous chlorination. As with any
pool chemical, follow the directions on the container.
Step 3 -- Super Chlorination
Super chlorination or shocking the pool is a chemical treatment
to eliminate non-filterable wastes from the pool water. A
granular chlorine product such as calcium hypochlorite, lithium
hypochlorite or sodium-dichloro-s-triazine-trione-dihydrate
is used to obtain a chlorine reading of 8.0 to 10.0 ppm. Also
available and highly recommended for a fiberglass pool is
non-chlorine shock treatment. Super chlorinating chemicals
are available in convenient one pound packages or in bulk
packages of 25 to 75 pounds.
Calcium hypochlorite should always be pre-dissolved before
adding to a fiberglass pool to prevent bleaching or staining
of the surfaces. Calcium hypochlorite is used at a rate of
one pound per 6000 gallons of pool water.
Lithium hypochlorite is a quicker dissolving chemical which
may be added directly to a fiber glass pool. It is used at
a rate of one pound per 6000 gallons of pool water.
Sodium di-chloro, like lithium hypochlorite, may be added
directly to the pool. It is used at a rate of one pound per
10,000 gallons of pool water.
Non-chlorine shock treatment is an effective oxidizer for
restoring water sparkle without chlorine. By shocking with
non-chlorine shock treatment, you can avoid extremely high
chlorine readings which in a fiberglass pool, because of its
non-porous surface, can last 4-5 days and keep you from enjoying
your pool. This allows an easier and more effective method
of maintaining a 1.5 ppm chlorine reading with the additional
advantage of being able to swim in 15 minutes after its use.
Step 4 -- Prevention of Algae
Contaminants in the rain and wind can quickly deplete the
chlorine supplies in the pool. A high quality algaecide (Algae
Inhibitor, Algaecide Concentrate) acts as a chemical back
up system in the event the chlorine becomes exhausted from
the pool.
Following a one time initial(normally one quart per 25,000
gallons of pool water) add a maintenance treatment (normally
two ounces per 5000 gallons of pool water) directly to the
pool every other week or every week.
Step 5 -- Prevention of Staining
In order to prevent staining of the interior pool walls, a
metal chelation product is used. This product aids in the
removal of metals introduced to the pool by fill waters, rain,
and corrosion of metal equipment.
NOTE: Failure to use a metal chelation product as mentioned
above, in accordance with manufacturer's instructions, may
result in staining the pool walls which is not covered by
your pool warranty.
Following an initial treatment (normally one quart per 1000
gallons of pool water) metal chelation products are added
on an every-other-week basis (normally two ounces per 5000
gallons of pool water). NEVER add this product with a shock
treatment.
*General Chemical Information
From the very first day you fill your pool, its purity must
be guarded (and maintained) by a chemical disinfectant. Enough
of it must reside there to kill disease-carrying bacteria and
algae brought into the water by bathers, wind, rain, etc.
The amount of chemical residual which must be present in pool
water is expressed as so many parts of disinfectant per million
parts of water, abbreviated ppm. The same quantitative measure
is used to express the amount of any other chemical added or
present in the water.
Chlorine is the most widely used and accepted disinfectant for
swimming pools. when chlorine is used as a disinfectant, at
least 1.0 ppm and preferably 1.5 ppm of "free residual chlorine"
MUST at all times be present in pool water to kill bacteria
and algae and maintain the water's purity. Critical though this
residual is for pool purity, it is a very small amount of chemical.
Less than one drop of chlorine in every 1,000,000 drops of pool
water is enough to disinfect the pool, providing the chemical
is 100% active.
Here is a list of the most common factors affecting the in-pool
longevity of chlorine.
1. BATHING LOAD - The number of swimmers who use your pool.
The greater the number of swimmers, the more disinfectant is
used up.
2. SUNLIGHT - The greater the sun's intensity, the faster the
dissipation of disinfectant "residual" unless the pool is stabilized.
3. WATER INTENSITY - The warmer the pool's water, the shorter
the life of chlorine. This process is greatly accelerated when
the water temperature exceeds 35 degrees.
4. WINDS AND RAIN - Carry dust, bacteria, algae spores and other
debris into the pool, overworking the chemical disinfectants
and reducing their ability to sanitize.
5. pH BALANCE - As the pH of the pool water rises, disinfectant
action slows down. More disinfectant must then be added to maintain
the proper "residual."
To maintain your pool's bacteria killing residual, disinfectant
chemicals may be added by hand or by a chemical feeder. Feeders
may be adjusted to increase or decrease the feed rates of disinfectants,
depending upon the chemical demand of your particular pool.
Granular disinfectants are simply sprinkled into the pool water.
Begin at the deep end. Move completely around the pool distributing
it evenly throughout the pool. Some granular disinfectants must
be pre-dissolved before adding them to the pool and may cause
the water to become cloudy.
*pH
The ideal level for pool water is 7.4 to 7.6. Water that is
neutral - that is neither basic nor acidic - has a pH value
of 7.0. This is midpoint on the 0 to 14 pH scale.
Above 7.0 pH, the pool water is alkaline. The higher up the
pH scale pool water tests, the more alkaline it is.
Below 7.0 pH, pool water is acidic. The lower down the pH scale
pool water tests, the more acidic it is.
Maintaining your pool slightly on the alkaline side (Note that
the recommended 7.4 to 7.6 pH level is above the neutral point,
thus alkaline) is important for a number of reasons.
When pool water is too alkaline (above 7.6) disinfecting chemicals
work more slowly. They may not do their proper killing job even
though tests of the water may indicate a proper residual. Also
scale may form on or in pool equipment and piping, and especially
pool heater coils.
On the other hand, if pool water becomes acidic, it irritates
the eyes, corrodes the equipment and piping, and can result
in pool interior surface stains.
To test for the pH of the pool water, follow the instructions
provided in your test kit. Do not add any test chemicals directly
into the pool and do not put the pool water back into the pool
after testing. High chlorine residual in your pool can affect
the water's pH reading. Take the pH reading before adding chlorine
to pool. Do not hold your finger over the top of the test tube
while mixing; body acid can cause a false test reading.
*Total Alkalinity
Occasionally, pool water should be tested for "total alkalinity".
Total alkalinity is a measurement of the total amount of alkaline
chemicals in the water. It refers to the degree of resistance
to pH change of pool water or its "buffering capacity". The
proper alkalinity is between 120 and 150 ppm.
Low alkalinity waters make pH control difficult because of lack
of buffering capacity (or poor resistance to pH change). Alkalinity
must be increased in these waters to offset the possibility
of the pool water reverting to acid.
Many waters are of high total alkalinity and high pH. To get
these waters into the swimming pool "comfort zone" it is necessary
to destroy a portion of the alkalinity so the pH can be lowered.
This can be accomplished by the addition of muriatic acid.
*Calcium Hardness
The hardness of your pool water refers to the quantity of calcium
and magnesium in the water. When evaporation takes place in
your pool, calcium is left behind and increases the hardness
of the water. High levels may cause cloudy water, scaling of
pool surfaces, piping and equipment in the recirculation system.
Low levels may lead to equipment corrosion and pool surface
damage. The desired range of calcium hardness in a fiberglass
pool is 170 to 220 ppm. Calcium Hardness Increaser can help
you reach the right hardness in your pool water.
Other factors of vital importance are metal contents, cyanic
acid and total dissolved solids. These factors should be checked
by your pool professional at least once every six to eight weeks
to be sure they are within proper ranges.
*Handling and Storing Pool Chemicals
1. Keep ALL chemicals out of reach of children.
2. Date all chemicals on the container. Most pool chemicals
are stable, retaining their effectiveness and strength for a
considerable amount of time when stored properly.
3. Keep the original lid on all chemical containers and make
sure all the lids are tightly sealed. Store chemicals in a dry,
cool place.
4. Chlorine chemicals are concentrated chemicals which can be
dangerous if not handled properly. DO NOT MIX THEM WITH ANYTHING
EXCEPT WATER.
5. Use plastic, glass china or enamelware scoops, measures and
spoons. . .and be sure they are clean and dry.
6. Measure and add pool chemicals separately, according to directions.
Do not mix one with another before adding them to the pool.
7. Most pool chemicals are harmful to shrubs, grass and foliage
in concentrated form. Keep pool chemicals away from plant life
near the pool.
8. Hands should be clean and dry when dispensing pool chemicals.
Wash all hands thoroughly after treating pool.
9. Read ALL labels carefully before using pool chemicals and
always follow directions exactly.
*Testing Pool Water
Proper testing procedures ensure accurate chemical readings.
1. Read and carefully follow testing instructions enclosed with
your test kit.
2. Rinse test kit tubes with pool water before filling the tubes
for testing.
3. Take water sample for testing 12 to 13 inches deep in pool.
Do NOT take water sample from the surface water in the pool;
this will affect the accuracy of the test.
4. Always read the test results against a white background.
5. Always test chlorine first, then test pH.
6. Keep your test kit in a COOL, dry place.
7. Replace test reagents every year. The reagents lose their
accuracy due to exposure too heat and sunlight.
*When to test
1. CHLORINE RESIDUAL - Every day, if no marked change every
other day or twice per week.
2. pH LEVEL - Every day, if no marked change every other day
or twice per week.
3. TOTAL ALKALINITY - Every 1 to 2 weeks.
4. CALCIUM HARDINESS - Every 2 to 3 months.
5. METAL CONTENT - Every 2 to 3 months
6. CYANURIC ACID, TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS - Every 6 months.
The pool water should be tested for chlorine residual, pH level,
total alkalinity, calcium hardness, copper and iron after each
rain of consequence or upon addition of more than eight inches
of fresh water.
*Maintaining Water Level in Your Pool
For best operation, keep the water level in your pool near the
center of the skimmer. A LOWER WATER LEVEL CAN CAUSE DAMAGE
TO THE POOL. The pump and filter may also be damaged by allowing
air into the system. A higher level reduces the efficiency of
the skimmer.
DO NOT DRAIN OR ALLOW THE WATER LEVEL IN YOUR POOL TO BE LOWERED
BELOW THE SKIMMER FOR ANY REASON!
NOTE: If the water level in your Royal One-Piece Fiberglass
Pool is lowered by you or any other agent not authorized by
Royal Fiberglass Pools, Inc. your pool warranty will be voided.
Your One-Piece Fiberglass pool is designed to remain full of
water at all times. Warranty will be voided if water level is
lowered below the skimmer. Contact your authorized One-Piece
Fiberglass dealer for professional assistance.
If the pool is lowered for any reason without first relieving
the hydro static pressure on the pool shell, the pool shell
may buckle and crack. All damage to the pool shell resulting
from lowered water levels without professional assistance from
your authorized One-Piece Fiberglass dealer is the owner's responsibility.
*Pool Surface Care
The surface of your One-Piece Fiberglass pool is the finest
available and the easiest to maintain if you follow these simple
directions.
ABOVE THE WATER LINE
The "bathtub ring", caused by body oils, suntan lotions and
contaminants from the air, is easily removed with warm water
and an approved swimming pool surface cleaner for fiberglass,
vinyl or painted pools.
Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, metal scrapers, wire
brushes, or metal tools as these permanently damage the gel
coat finish.
Dulled spots can be restored by first using a body compound
(DuPont #7 or similar) followed by a coat of wax (Fiberglass
boat wax or similar).
The gel coat finish on your One-Piece Fiberglass pool can be
scratched, just like any other glossy surface. This finish is
seven to eight times thicker than a normal coat of paint, so
it is not likely that scratches will be more than superficial.
Generally, you need not concern yourself with them.
Hairline cracks in the Gelcoat finish of your One-Piece Fiberglass
pool are not uncommon. Patch and repair kits are available from
your authorized One-Piece Fiberglass dealer.
BELOW THE WATER LINE
More brushing than vacuuming is our recommendation. A large
percentage of the dirt, dust, soil, etc. that sinks to the bottom
can be vacuumed out and will be caught in the air filter. Heavy
excesses, after a storm, heavy rain, etc., should be vacuumed
out. (See below). Use your leaf rake to remove leaves.
Vacuuming your pool removes all debris from the pool. The following
steps are the recommended method of vacuuming. If you have any
questions concerning this, contact your authorized One-Piece
Fiberglass dealer for help.
1. Remove the skimmer lid from skimmer.
2. Attach vacuum hose to vacuum head on your pole. Sink vacuum
head and pole into pool.
3. Fill vacuum hose with water by holding hose in front of return
inlet until all bubbles stop coming out of the vacuum head under
water.
4. Vacuum hose MUST be full of waster before plugging it into
the skimmer.
5. Insert vacuum hose into the suction outlet of the skimmer
or into the vacuum plate.
6. Vacuum pool. Do not remove head from water until you are
finished vacuuming pool. Vacuum from the shallow end to the
deep end. Do not vacuum metal caps or large leaves as they may
clog the plumbing lines.
7. After vacuuming is complete, disconnect the hose from the
skimmer. Remove the vacuum head and pole from the pool, rinse
the vacuum and hose with fresh water (not from the pool). Do
not store vacuum hose in sunlight as this will shorten the life
of the hose by about 50%. Coil the vacuum hose and store it
in the garage or storage room. A large garbage can makes an
ideal outdoor storage container for the vacuum hose and vacuum
head.
8. Empty skimmer basket and replace the lid on top of the skimmer.
*Decks, Walkways and Patios
Keep ALL areas adjacent to the pool as clean as possible. All
dirt, dust, debris, etc. on these areas are blown or tracked
into your pool, increasing the chlorine demand. Hosing off these
areas with water is the accepted method of cleaning them. Keep
wash water out of the pool as much as possible.
Pool chemicals in concentrate can etch and/or stain your deck
area. Be careful not to spill pool chemicals on these surfaces.
If you should spill pool chemicals on these be sure to rinse
the area with large quantities of fresh water.
Occasionally, in the summer months you may encounter algae growing
on the deck area. Should this occur, wash the area with an algaecide
solution (1 part algaecide to 8 parts water). Rinse thoroughly
after cleaning.
*Pool Safety
Like anything new, your One-Piece Fiberglass pool will be "shown
off" to your family, friends and neighbors.
1. Be sure visitors at your pool know how to swim and are familiar
with these precautions.
2. If your children do not know how to swim, enroll them in
a certified Learn-to-Swim program.
3. NEVER allow anyone under the influence of alcohol or drugs
to use the pool.
4. NEVER allow horseplay in the pool or in the immediate pool
area.
5. DANGER: Head-first entry to diving may result in permanent
paralysis or fatal injury and is not recommended in shallow
areas.
6. Clean, maintain and chlorinate your pool regularly to insure
safe, clear water conditions.
7. A fence around your entire pool with a spring lock, self
closing and self-latching gate can be the best protection against
unauthorized entry and use. (The latch should be above the reach
of toddlers or young children). 1
8. Your pool's inlet and outlet fittings, grates and skimmer
and main drain covers should be kept in good repair and should
be secured in place at all times, except during cleaning. Inspect
them often. If missing, loose, cracked or broken, close the
pool until proper repairs are made.
Tell children, particularly, that these devices are not toys.
Instruct all swimmers not to stick their fingers, toes or body
into them. Entrapment and drowning can occur. 2
*Do's3
Do know the shape of the pool bottom and the water depth before
you dive or slide headfirst.
Do plan your path to avoid submerged obstacles, surface objects
or other swimmers.
Do hold your head up, arms up, and steer with your hands.
Do keep arms extended and head and hands up.
Do practice carefully before you dive or slide headfirst.
Do test the diving board for its spring before using.
Do remember that when you dive down, you must steer up.
*Dont's3
Don't dive into an above ground pool.
Don't dive or slide headfirst in the shallow part of the pool.
Don't dive off the side of a diving board - dive straight ahead.
Don't dive across the narrow part of pools without 25 fear of
clear dive path in front of you.
Don't run and dive.
Don't dive from retaining walls, ladders, slides or other pool
equipment.
Don't engage in horseplay on diving or sliding equipment.
Don't use diving equipment as a trampoline.
Don't do a back dive; backyard pools are not built for the dangerous
dive.
Don't try fancy dives; keep dives simple.
Don't dive or slide headfirst at or through objects such as
inner tubes.
Don't put diving or sliding equipment on a pool that wasn't
designed for it.
Don't swim or dive alone.
Don't dive into unfamiliar bodies of water.
1National Spa and Pool Institute, THE SENSIBLE WAY TO ENJOY
YOUR POOL, (Alexandria, VA 1983), pg. 11.
2THE SENSIBLE WAY, pg. 12
3 THE SENSIBLE WAY, pg.5
It is a good idea for you to review your insurance coverage
on your house of property where the pool has been installed
and decide whether you have sufficient insurance protection
against the threat of a law suit. Home owners insurance is much
less expensive than automobile insurance and increasingly greater
amounts of insurance can be purchased at minimal rates.
Your LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY is to protect against misuse whether
you are at poolside or not.
1. Whenever you see anyone doing a dangerous activity, you have
a responsibility to warn them and to tell them to stop.
2. Never, ever leave a child alone near water, even to answer
the phone.
3. Tell every person who will use your pool your pool rules
and regulations.
4. Prohibit glass of any sort in the pool area.
5. Post on your phone the rescue or hospital telephone number.
Also, display a guide for mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and CPR.
6. Learn proper removal techniques of injured pool users.
Drowning is the second leading cause of accidental death. Drowning
usually occurs with one or more of the following "no-no's" of
owning a swimming pool.
1. UNSUPERVISED SWIMMING
When a child drowns, an adult is responsible. Never leave a
child alone, even for as long as it takes to answer the telephone.
A child whose lungs are filling with water is unable to scream
for help. Don't assume that you will be able to hear him if
something dangerous happens as there may be no sound.
2. UNCOVERED POOLS NOT IN USE
A pool cover serves to conceal the water and discourage a child's
curiosity. Also, a pool cover provides some protection to the
child or his parent should an unsupervised entry occur, because
it offers a place to hold.
3. UNPROTECTED POOLS, NOT SURROUNDED BY FENCING
A good fence not only provides privacy, it also insures against
uninvited guests when you are away from home. You should also
have a "NO TRESPASSING" sign posted on your fence.
4. UNLOCKED SAFETY GATES AND DOORS
Be sure all fenced pools have self-locking gates. If the pool
can be entered from the house, be sure those doors are self-locking
doors.
5. UNACCOMPANIED SWIMMING
Good swimmers drown, too. Often it is not the inexperienced
or reckless person who is a drowning victim. Rather, it is a
person who can swim and is careless about when, how and where
they swim. Never allow ANYONE (including yourself) to swim alone.
It is common that alcoholic beverages are served or consumed
in close proximity to your swimming pool. Conduct of all persons
must be closely supervised in a "party atmosphere" or in an
environment where alcohol is consumed. Horseplay or diving and
swimming competitions may result in injury.
Alcohol is not a stimulant, but rather, it is a depressant.
The reason more people act silly after a few drinks is that
the part of the brain which exercises restraint and control
over their activities is being anesthetized and the controls
diminish.
As the amount of alcohol consumed increases, the more of the
brain is anesthetized and eventually one can black out or worse.
If your guests consume alcohol and then must drive home, please
exercise consideration for their welfare and life as well as
the life of others on the highway. If you or your guests become
intoxicated, please do not use your pool or operate an automobile.
Here are some of our suggestions for pool rules. Please feel
free to copy these and distribute them to family, friends and
neighbors who will be using your pool.
*Pool Rules
(The manufacturer in all his wisdom suggested we give these
to all who might use our pool. We agree! We hope you will, too!!!)
1. Phone before you come over. Guests, illness, etc. can make
it impossible to accommodate more guests.
2. Children are welcome ONLY by special invitation or when accompanied
by at least one parent.
3. Could you bring your own towel?
4. No running around the pool.
5. No cats, dogs, or pets of any kind. (Animals, as a rule,
have 100 times more bacteria than humans.)
6. Observe our safety regulations.
In some areas of the United States, the water out of the tap
contains excessive minerals, such as iron or copper. The necessary
addition of chlorine to your pool water precipitates these minerals
and turns the water brown, and forms a coating on the pool surface.
To keep these minerals in solution and to help prevent this,
you must add a sequestrian chemical, as per instructions on
the sequestrian container label. Water should be analyzed periodically
to maintain a chemical balance.
We appreciate your purchasing our product. We have strived to
provide your authorized One-Piece Fiberglass pool dealer with
all the information he will need to assist you in the care and
maintenance of your pool shell.
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